In Baltimore, even the most posh bars can be ripe for a rebrand.
Tony Foreman recognized this in Pazo, the Fells Point hotspot he opened with chef Cindy Wolf in 2004. After operating as a Spanish restaurant for a decade, Pazo kept its name but became a Southern Italian eatery a few years ago. In late summer 2016, however, the Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group announced a true fresh start in the form of Bar Vasquez, an Argentinian-inspired treat for diners and imbibers alike.
A year after opening, Bar Vasquez seems nicely settled into its somewhat-new home. (While the décor has been updated, Bar Vasquez and Pazo are pretty much structurally the same, Foreman said.) A recent Friday night visit revealed an intriguing bar program primed for leisurely exploration, and housed in a gorgeous space that felt equally comfortable and luxurious.
Taking a seat at the first-floor's bar (there's a 10-seat, second-floor bar focused on whiskey, too), we settled in around 10 p.m., after the happy-hour crowd had dispersed. The long, white marble bar only had a handful of patrons, which afforded us plenty of one-on-one time with our skillful bartender that came in handy later.
But first, we took in the ambience, which makes Bar Vasquez worth a visit even if it's just for a beer (say, a Union Craft Brewing Duckpin Pale Ale for $7). White linen tablecloths are the mark of the fancier top floor, while beautiful booths and couches establish the more casual lower level. Twenty-foot palm trees serve as focal points, and breathe life into the room. On weekends, Flamenco guitarists and world-music bands perform on a stage.
Then there's the lighting, an example of how subtle but effective a rebrand can be. At Pazo, there was an emphasis on shadows and mood lighting, but Bar Vasquez seems brighter and less dramatic. Lighting and colors feel pleasingly layered here - the space's obvious beauty impresses, but never distracts.
We soon turned our attention to the cocktail menu (nine options priced at $12 each), and began our night with a Twice Shaken, a textured take on a Bulleit bourbon-based old fashioned served in a martini glass; and a Rocinante, a mule made with Tito's vodka and housemade ginger syrup. Both were well-executed versions of cocktails served by many Baltimore bars.
Things got more interesting - and tastier - the following round, with the Busy Bee, the bar's most popular cocktail, according to Foreman. Comprised of Old Tom Gin, salted cucumber juice and house-made honey syrup, the drink's balance between salty and sweet made sipping feel addictive. An El Classico - made with Fernet Branca, Gosling's Dark Rum and Luxardo Maraschino liqueur - appealed to our inner rum-and-Coke drinker. Foreman laughingly described it as a "disaster" popularized in European nightclubs before it begrudgingly won him over. We had no qualms.
As with any Foreman Wolf property (others include Charleston, Cinghiale and Petit Louis Bistro) Bar Vasquez takes wine seriously, offering 18 wines by the glass and nearly 200 bottles. Foreman said he tasted thousands to curate this list, in an effort to separate the quality from the junk.
While you could drop a couple rent checks on a single bottle (CVNE's Vina Real from 1952, a Spanish red wine blend, costs $1,650), Foreman said the sommelier can help guide patrons to many flavorful winners in the $30 range. In our case, our bartender assisted us, pouring samples until a friend pinpointed a glass of Prisma sauvignon blanc ($9 for a glass) as her choice.
As we sat at the bar, a few friends joined us, and we quickly learned one had accepted a new job. So we clanked glasses and laughed - a celebratory scene in a space suited for such occasions.
Surely, we could have commemorated the moment in the dive bars or usual haunts of Fells Point, just as we had done countless times before. But in that moment, I was grateful we were in Bar Vasquez, a less noisy and more sophisticated version of its predecessor, Pazo. When it was time to celebrate a new beginning, the setting felt just right.
Bar Vasquez
Backstory: Open as Pazo from 2004 to 2016, Bar Vasquez re-emerged in Fells Point last fall as the Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group's take on Argentinian food and drinks. The bar features cocktails, beer and an extensive wine list.
Parking: Valet parking available
Handicap accessible: Yes. There is a side entrance with a ramp for wheelchairs, and an elevator to access the upstairs.
Signature drink: The Busy Bee ($12) - a cocktail made with gin, salted cucumber juice and honey syrup - is the most popular, according to co-owner Tony Foreman.
Where: 1425 Aliceanna St., Fells Point
Contact: 410-534-7296; barvasquez.com
Open: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday; closed Sunday
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