Recently, I told a friend in Canton my plans to check out the all-day breakfast spot Iron Rooster.
"Good luck," she responded, without hesitation. "It's always crazy packed there on weekends."
In October 2014, Kyle Algaze opened his first Iron Rooster in Annapolis and quickly found success - so much so that he took over the former Farmstead Grill location in the Canton Crossing shopping center and opened his second Iron Rooster in November.
For months, I had heard Iron Rooster had been drawing crowds, and on a recent Sunday visit, the eye-test confirmed the reputation. By the door, large parties waited for their reservations to be called, while a portion of the shoulder-to-shoulder bar traffic - mimosas and Bloody Marys in hand - did the same. As parties were called, new patrons slid into their place to wait.
It became clear early on that a seat at the bar would come at a premium, so when a lone stool became vacant, I pounced. My right foot dangled awkwardly off my stool because of the tight space, but at least I had a seat.
The design and ambience explained, at least partially, why Iron Rooster has fans. Despite the fast-paced environment (staff constantly zigged and zagged throughout the space, often while carrying heaping plates of food), Iron Rooster makes for a pleasant, easy-on-the-eyes setting. The general look from the handsome Farmstead Grill remains - soft lighting, wood everywhere - but it feels better within this more laidback concept.
Iron Rooster is a family restaurant first, Algaze later told me, so he set out to clearly establish the bar as its own space. A wall separates the bar and the dining area, so diners don't feel like parties waiting for tables are breathing down their necks as they hover over meals.
While most come to eat homemade pop-tarts and Southern comfort meals like biscuits and sausage gravy, Iron Rooster's bar has reasons to not leave in a hurry.
Canton has a huge brunch scene, and orange crushes and Bloody Marys are the fuel that keeps it going, so I started there.
Without looking at a menu, I ordered an orange crush and received an Iron Crush ($8), the bar's take on the popular cocktail. Made with organic vodka and blood orange liqueur, both from Thatcher's, orange juice and Sprite, the Iron Crush finished sweet and smooth. The liqueur added a hint of raspberry, which offered just enough deviation from the orange flavor.
Next came the highlight of my visit - the Cock-a-Doodle-Doo ($11). It felt a bit lame to say aloud, but after tasting the cocktail, I would have called it by any name, even the most absurd onomatopoeia.
Brunch cocktails are not always worth the money - too often, the orange juice or Bloody Mary mix overshadows the alcohol. With the Cock-a-Doodle-Doo, the base is vanilla bean-infused Wild Turkey bourbon, so while its sweetness slightly dulls the alcoholic kick, a bite remains. Combined with the other ingredients (orange juice, simple syrup, egg white and an orange wheel for garnish), this is the tastiest original brunch cocktail I've had in a long time. The Iron Crush was refreshing, but I would have skipped it had I known the punch this drink packed.
I finished the brunch trifecta with the cocktail I saw the bartender make most - the Iron Rooster Bacon Bloody Mary ($9). Made with Svedka vodka, it's a fine version of the standard, finished with a pickled asparagus spear, olive and thick slice of bacon sticking out of it. I could have used more spice in the mix, a common gripe of mine for nearly all Bloody Marys. Still, I think my mind was still fixated on the previous cocktail.
Throughout the visit, my bartender was quick to see if I needed anything. Service felt attentive, if not particularly individualized, which seemed understandable given the crowd. I didn't see him take a break once, even to glance at a phone, which felt refreshing.
Algaze said he would continue to tweak Iron Rooster, based partially on feedback from the neighborhood. Residents have been asking for happy hour specials, so Algaze plans to introduce a happy hour menu of food and drink starting June 1. More drinks will appear on the menu soon, too, like a pop-tart martini and beer cocktails.
And don't be surprised if more Iron Roosters eventually pop up throughout Maryland. Algaze had nothing firm to report, but he's exploring possibilities around the state. The key, he said, is having the restaurant reflect its neighborhood and community, rather than a one-size-fits-all approach. Before opening, Algaze made sure to introduce himself and his brand to prominent businesses and the Canton Community Association, he said.
In response, many Canton residents seem fully on board with Algaze's approach. As I walked out the door, I glanced back and already saw my seat once again occupied. It's the norm here.